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A first-timer's guide to the toile appointment and what to expect

What happens at a bespoke lingerie fitting

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The Stardust Jump atelier
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Bespoke
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Most people who book a bespoke lingerie commission have never had a garment made to measure before. The fitting process can feel unfamiliar, and it helps to know what each stage is actually for before you arrive. This is a plain account of what happens, in order.

The measurement appointment

The first appointment is not a fitting in the traditional sense. No fabric is cut yet. We take twelve measurements. Underbust, full bust, bust point spacing, waist, high hip, full hip, and several others that are specific to lingerie construction. And records them alongside notes about posture and any asymmetry. Most people have some degree of asymmetry, and accounting for it at this stage is what makes the finished piece sit correctly.

The appointment takes about forty-five minutes. You do not need to bring anything specific, though wearing a well-fitting bra (if you own one) gives us a useful reference point for where you prefer the underwire to sit.

The toile fitting

Two to three weeks after the measurement appointment, the toile is ready. A toile is a test garment cut in an inexpensive cotton that mimics the weight and behaviour of the chosen fabric. It is not pretty. It is functional.

The toile fitting is where the real work happens. We pin and adjust the toile on your body, marking changes directly on the fabric. Underwire placement, strap length, back closure position, leg line. All of these are confirmed at this stage. Clients are encouraged to move around, sit down, and raise their arms so that the fit can be assessed in motion rather than just standing still.

Most toiles require at least a few adjustments. This is expected and is not a sign that anything has gone wrong. The purpose of the toile is to find those adjustments before the final fabric is cut.

The final fitting

The final fitting happens in the finished piece. By this stage, the major fit decisions have already been made at the toile stage, so this appointment is usually shorter. We check that the fabric has behaved as expected. Silk charmeuse in particular can shift slightly after cutting. And makes any minor adjustments needed.

The finished piece leaves the atelier after this appointment, either collected in person or dispatched by tracked courier.

If you have questions about the process before booking, the FAQ section covers the most common ones. And if you are ready to begin, the contact form is the right place to start.

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