Choosing the right lace weight for your lingerie piece
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Lace is not one material. The archive at Stardust Jump holds six weights of Calais lace, and the choice between them affects the finished piece more than most clients expect. This is a guide to understanding what each weight does.
Fine lace: 20-40 gram weights
The lightest laces in the archive. 20 and 30 gram weights. Are close to tulle in their behaviour. They are transparent, very soft against skin, and have a delicate pattern that reads as texture rather than structure. These weights work well for overlay panels on a bodysuit or a slip, where the lace adds visual interest without adding bulk.
The 40-gram weight is the most versatile in the archive. It has enough body to hold a cup shape in a bralette without underwire, but it is still soft enough to wear against skin without a lining.
Medium lace: 60 gram weight
The 60-gram lace is the weight used most often for bra cups and brief panels. It has a clear pattern, holds its shape under tension, and does not distort when the garment is worn. It is the weight that most clients are thinking of when they picture a lace lingerie piece.
This weight requires a silk lining in most applications, as it is firm enough to feel scratchy against skin without one. The lining adds a small amount to the construction time but significantly improves the wearing experience.
Heavy lace: 80 gram guipure
Guipure lace has no net ground. The pattern elements are connected to each other directly, which gives it a three-dimensional quality that lighter laces do not have. The 80-gram guipure in the archive is used for waistbands, statement panels, and trim details where the lace is meant to be seen rather than felt.
It is not suitable for large panels worn directly against skin, but as a structural and decorative element it is the most distinctive material in the archive.
If you are unsure which lace weight is right for your commission, we can send samples of all six weights by post. The contact form is the right place to request them.
#Lace #Fabric #Calais #Bespoke